2006-09-20

New doors overtake kitchen

I have decided that my time is better spent putting in some new (to me) doors than in doing a partial job on the interior wall of my kitchen. The doors are necessarily a first step if the wall is to come entirely out, and they have been a stable part of all my kitchen redesigns, so I have confidence that putting them in now is a logical first step. The attic vent and the laborers remain on the to do list for this weekend, along with the doors.

Although I have a pair of French doors, I have always thought that I would prefer to have two matched pair so that I can have one pair out through the kitchen and the other out through my bedroom. It just so happened that I was over at the Habitat for Humanity resale store today at lunch and they had just received three pair of French doors. (Just yesterday at lunch they didn't have these doors.) I bought two pair for about $350 total. What a deal! They have hardware in place and are already hung. HOWEVER, they are framed such that they swing in, instead of out. We'll need to rehang them to make them swing out, so that part of the task remains the same. I need to pick them up by Saturday and I'll need a rental truck to do that since they are big.

They are each 30" wide, so a revised span table calculation for a 60” span is required.

Here are header sizes for walls with no story above, with only exterior wall or 10' tributary load using Douglas Fir
# header:
2-2x4s 4'
2-2x6s 4'6"
2-2x8s 6'8"
2-2x10s 8'10"
2-2x12s 11'

Warren copied this from his Code Check book. It's based on CABO t 602.6 (CABO - Council of American Building Officials 1995). Local codes are usually a combination of CABO and UBC (Uniform Building Code).

The City of Mission Viejo has this to say about header requirements, “Design headers to support all loads imposed on them. A traditional rule of thumb often used to size headers is the "inch per foot" rule which will provide adequate strength in most cases with spans up to eight feet. For headers in single story dwellings supporting no point loads such as posts or beams, provide one inch of header depth for every foot of header length, min. 4 x 4.”

These two design guidelines seem consistent, so I’ll be going with a 4x8 header.

Things to get:
Pick up the two new pairs of French doors (rental truck Friday afternoon)
7.5” wide oak threshold, 5’ long
4x8 Douglas fir header
1x clear pine for door jamb – I’ll need to get 1x10 or x12 in order to cut it to fit my non-standard walls. Three 8’ pieces should do.
Some molding for door stops (Home Depot Friday)
A 4x4 as a header for the attic
New hinges. (Home Depot Friday)
A few more 2x4s (Home Depot)
Expanded metal mesh for stucco (Home Depot Friday)
House paper (Home Depot Friday)
Sill flashing (Home Depot Friday)
Tapered wood shims(Home Depot Friday)
2-1/2" brass screws for hinges (Home Depot Friday)
1-1/2" brass screws for hinges (Home Depot Friday)
self centering drill bit / Vix bit (Home Depot Friday)
Masonry bit and concrete anchors for sill (Home Depot Friday)
1 box each of 8d, 10d, and 16d nails (Home Depot Friday)
New construction junction boxes, indoor and outdoor (Home Depot Friday)


Warren to bring:
Ginder with diamond blade
shop vac
Finish nailer
compressor
Stucco
stucco finishing tools
door & window flashing paper
staple gun & staples
Garden tools for workers (pick, digging bar, shovels)
Table saw & assorted blades including datto blades
framing saw
chop saw
saws-all
belt sander
palm sander
drill and assorted bits
battery charger for drill/skill saw
Router & bits for possible sill work (I'll explain later)
Gorrila glue
Nails
Compressor
AWG 14 romex
spare electrical boxes


http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/doors/install1/custom/pre-hang/solid.htm

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